Saint-Tropez is, above all, a place of appetite, for food, for wine, for the particular quality of light that turns the Var countryside the colour of warm stone by early afternoon. The culinary logic here begins inland, where the Massif des Maures produces some of the most underestimated red wines in France, Chateau Minuty, Domaine Ott, before the Route des Cretes carries you back toward the coast through terraced vineyards and dry-herb air that smells of thyme and sun-warmed earth.
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This is the road that earns the lunch. At Club 55 on Pampelonne Beach, the ritual has barely changed in seven decades: grilled sea bass, tomatoes from the kitchen garden, a carafe of pale pink Provence rose cold enough to fog the glass.
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